Here is a statement of the obvious. It's hot in the desert and cool in the mountains. This particular June, my first in the land of Manana has decided to be particularly hot. The thermometer on my car read 105 when I headed north out of Albuquerque on I-25. I was heading to the Jemez Mountains to beat the heat. Growing up my grandparents had a ranch outside of Mora, so I spent a lot of time in the Carson National Forest, northwest of Santa Fe, but had never been to the Jemez. It seems to be the destination of choice for the Albuquerque set, so I was on my way. I took I-25 up to 550 in Bernallilo, tracking perilously close to the scene of the demise of the Cherokee at in the Ojito Wilderness. Then I turned on to Route 4 heading toward Ponderosa. It was fun to watch the temperature fall as I headed out of the concrete urban freeway sprawl of Albuquerque.
Using an actual paper map (gps and cell phone service suck in all the 'good' places here) I picked out a forest service road to head directly north to Jemez Falls and bypass La Cueva and Soda Dam. It was a pretty good idea considering there had been some forest fires up that way earlier in the week and the road was busy with fire traffic. Blindly picking a forest service road out of the blue can turn out to be a pretty big gamble. There are large graded serviced ones, and then there are others that go from viable two-lane dirt road to goat path a few miles in. Forest Service Road # 10 was excellent. I was able to go over the top of Redondo Peak all on a lovely graded dirt road that wasn't rutted or washboard at all.

It was easy to follow and we descended in to the lush piney Jemez Falls around 5 pm. Perfect timing to beat the heat, score a campsite and get set up for the evening. The Jemez Falls campground was pretty packed, but like most New Mexico campgrounds I've visited, the campsites were spacious and fairly private. Arriving earlier would have ensured a better spot, but no complaints. The evening was spent listening to music and drinkin some beer. Waiting for the stars to come up, and oh, did they.
The next morning was up with the sun... or Dixie, take your pick.

I packed up some water and drove to the Jemez Falls trailhead. There were a few false starts, down the wrong trail but it was easy to hear the sound of the rushing water, lots of steep ups and downs on a short trail, but with the elevation of the nearby campsites at 10,000 feet, a good workout was easily had.
After exploring the falls (I would very much like to go back and spend the day reading by the waterfall) I opted to not take on the hike to battleship rock and instead packed up the car and got on the road to get some coffee from Amanda's Country Store.
After coffee I wanted to get one more short hike in before the weather got too hot. I headed up to the San Antonio Hot Springs, but the gate was closed. It was almost 10 am, and with the gate closed, its a 5 mile hike each way. I turned around and headed back down Rt. 4 toward Jemez Springs and Albuquerque. Not to far past the La Cueva turnoff I stopped at Spence Springs. The trail was well marked, and even early in the morning there was traffic on the trail. After hiking about 20 minutes up a slippery slimey path.

I arrived at the two spring fed pools, nestled on the hill side, with a gorgeous vista, and immediately knew why other people had hiked out there so early.

The better (upper) of the two pools was already inhabited, mostly likely by naked strangers, so I settled for wading in the lower pool, took some pictures and was on my way.

The drive back to Albuquerque was pretty passing through the artsy town of Jemez Springs, with a mission church and a ranger station, and followed the river and the cliffs all the way back to 550. I'd certainly do this adventure again. The hikes were pretty straightforward and the forest road gave a real sense of the mountains and piney forests, without having to hike for miles at high altitude. I look forward to many more trips up this way in the future... did somebody say full moon hike at San Antonio Springs??? Stay tuned!